Initially posted by Danny Milton on Hodinkee, July 14th 2023
Only a few weeks in the past, Rolex did one thing it nearly by no means does – at the least not till not too long ago. It launched an anniversary watch exterior of the traditional commerce present construction. The model went rogue, caught us all without warning, and unveiled what is sort of presumably the most popular watch of the yr.
In celebration of the one hundredth anniversary of Le Mans, Rolex introduced a really particular Daytona. Taking all the pieces new that the model introduced at Watches & Wonders 2023 (new symmetrical case, metal-edged bezel, re-configured dial structure, and new motion), this newest iteration of the Daytona is simply…additional in all the precise methods.
And look, we’ve seen Rolex do the anniversary dance previously. We’ve received our Kermit Submariners (with black dial and inexperienced bezel insert), and our platinum Daytonas. What makes these watches completely different from what we’re seeing within the new “Le Mans” Daytona is that they have been every new manifestations of a recognized design. And that’s as a result of Rolex doesn’t do homage, or so we thought.
This new Daytona is the Crown doing a throwback design in its personal manner. It’s not a re-edition or a 1:1 copy of a classic mannequin. It’s a new luxe Daytona that uniquely speaks to the previous. So what’s that previous? Nicely, it’s a combination of the Paul Newman styling and aesthetics of the very first Daytona mannequin, which itself hyperlinks again to Le Mans.
Fingers-On The 2023 Rolex Daytona With Caliber 4131
Our hands-on protection with the redesigned Daytona from Watches & Wonders 2023.
Origins Of The Daytona 24-Hour Races
The 24 Hours of Le Mans is essentially the most storied and prestigious endurance race on the planet. The Rolex Daytona is essentially the most well-known mechanical chronograph on that very same planet, so named for a unique 24-hour endurance race (I’ll allow you to guess), who’s origins level again to the Le Mans.
And that’s as a result of the unique Rolex Daytona ref. 6239 was not truly referred to as the Daytona at first. The advertising and marketing and promoting behind the mannequin that first sprang up in 1963 didn’t discuss with this watch as “Daytona” as a result of it wasn’t truly referred to as that but. As an alternative, the advertisements make reference to a chronograph referred to as the “Le Mans.”
Sure, the Rolex Daytona, by all accounts, was initially going to be referred to as the Rolex Le Mans. Daytona would finally take the billing due to Rolex’s sponsorship of the 24 Hours of Daytona within the mid-Sixties.
However it was Le Mans that set the desk some 60 years in the past. So whereas this new Daytona launched in June celebrates 100 years of the Le Mans race, it additionally marks 60 years because the Rolex Cosmograph was on the cusp of going by the exact same title.
Rolex’s Variation On Homage
To be clear, we’re not going to name this an homage as a result of, nicely, it isn’t. However there are sufficient Easter eggs hidden within the design of this new chrono that time to fashions of Rolex previous: notably that first reverse panda (black dial with white registers) ref. 6239 Le Mans Daytona, in addition to the Paul Newman Dial (a particularly funky dial iteration with purple accents and distinctive typography made well-known by the A-list actor) in each ref. 6239 and ref. 6263 format.
In the event you’re going to pay critical cash for any Daytona, I are inclined to suppose it must be one among historic significance.
– BEN CLYMER, HODINKEE FOUNDER
So what actually separates a non-Newman black dial from a Newman black dial Daytona? An entire lot truly. A conventional non-Newman Daytona seems to be similar to early Heuer Carreras in loads of methods. You will have the usual matte black dial with white hash marks, and high-contrast white sub-registers with normal numeral printing, together with the flat-four in these sub-registers. And that’s form of it.
Double Swiss Underline ref. 6239 non-Newman Daytona
Reference Factors: The Paul Newman Daytona
Hodinkee Founder Ben Clymer goes deep on the long-lasting chronograph made well-known by Paul Newman himself.
The Newman dial however brings in much more visible intrigue and distinction to the dial. The outer hash marks on the dial are achieved in a vibrant purple in opposition to a white outer backdrop. The internal dial is a flat black coloration. Whereas it shares the white sub-registers with the non-Newman, it’s what’s on the within that counts right here, and nothing is normal. First are the inner-markers with squared ends, and the distinctive numerical type in an nearly deco-format with sharp edges. These are referred to as unique dials and them, you’ll be able to see why.
Whereas these Newman dial Daytonas weren’t notably standard of their day, the Newman has gone on to change into essentially the most recognizable manifestation of the Daytona, interval. These watches proceed to fetch large outcomes at public sale and haven’t misplaced any reputation within the fashionable period of gathering.
Paul Newman is about as vital a determine in watches as they arrive, and his posthumous influence on horology can’t be overstated. Whether or not it’s the 6239 Newman Daytona with pump pushers or the later ref. 6263 mannequin with its screw-down pusher design, the person himself made an icon out of one of many worst-selling Rolex fashions of its day. That’s energy.
This 2023 mannequin takes a bit bit from the Le Mans and the Newman to create this celebratory look. The primary is using purple accents, even when they aren’t in locations you’ll usually discover them (on this case, on the bezel). However you see issues right here like using a black ceramic bezel, which is a riff on the black acrylic bezels of the older fashions.
The usual black dial and white sub-register motif actually looks like a direct call-out to the very first ref. 6239 Le Mans Daytona. The usage of the straightforward typography within the sub-registers and total pared-down design is about as near that look as you may get in a contemporary Daytona bundle. It’s once you look inside these pushers that you simply see the place the unique influence comes into play. The markers inside have the identical squared-off look that we see on the classic Newman dials. And I’ll go as far as to say that bringing again this design cue is nearly as sudden because the emoji Day-Date.
Doing The Anniversary Factor The Proper Means
Look, when Rolex does an anniversary – particularly with the Daytona – it makes it additional particular. And that normally means valuable steel. On this case the selection was white gold, which was a fantastic name right here as a result of it takes on the looks of metal whereas secretly elevating the watch a contact.
I believe it’s protected to say that when the platinum Daytona was launched in 2013, the final watch-loving public was left wanting a bit. People had that yr marked on their calendars. They needed a ceramic bezel in metal, and so they needed a panda dial. As an alternative, they received one thing very completely different and it took time for that watch to catch on.
The up to date platinum Daytona launched at W&W 2023.
This was a really completely different affair, largely due to the shock issue and lack of expectation. We thought we have been achieved celebrating the Daytona manner again in March. Rolex had achieved proper by us – taking the Daytona to new heights by refining the watch in a number of methods. A brand new bezel development, a extra luxurious dial structure, and a brand new motion have been all we actually wanted. And it took issues up a notch with the exhibition caseback on the platinum mannequin. An exhibition caseback on a Rolex?? Thoughts blown.
So when Le Mans occurred – out of deep left subject – we weren’t simply stunned, however immediately delighted. This one has delivered from the leap. It has all the pieces we didn’t even know we would have liked through the throwback design inspiration, plus the dear steel issue, making it a watch few will personal, however the remainder of us are completely okay admiring from afar with out FOMO.
And this one maintains the exhibition caseback – nevertheless it doesn’t hassle us as a result of the dial is simply so cool. And what about that purple flourish on the 100 mark on the dial? What’s that like? Nicely, our personal James Stacey was in a position to rise up shut and private with the brand new 2023 Daytona (and take these stunning pictures), and he has some ideas on this new Cosmograph.
Fingers-On With The Le Mans Daytona
By James Stacey
The 126529LN Daytona is unquestionably a watch I’m glad I received to attempt by myself wrist. One factor to notice is that the instance I shot is destined for retail and one among very only a few that Canada (or wherever else) will get this yr. As such, among the stickers wanted to remain on the look ahead to its fortunate proprietor to take away. However, within the steel, I used to be fairly stunned by simply how delicate it’s in particular person. It’s isn’t boring or boring, however the issues that differentiate this mannequin from a typical black dial metal Daytona are all achieved in a manner that’s quieter and extra cohesive than I had anticipated.
The white subdials really feel proper at residence on the dial, the purple accents are a lot much less vivid in actuality, and the white gold is heavy (I weighed this instance, with all of its hyperlinks, at 213 grams) however not in a manner that looks like it might be an excessive amount of. Sometimes, I’m admittedly not an enormous fan of the Daytona, however together with very a lot liking the modifications that Rolex applied earlier this yr with the most recent era that was introduced at Watches & Wonders, this reverse-panda-dial Daytona is well my favourite of any 6-digit Daytona reference.
Whereas I do know a lot of you studying this may have extra expertise than I with precious-metal Daytonas, I couldn’t assist however examine this mannequin to the 2013 platinum 116506 with its ice-blue dial and brown accents. Whereas I’m conscious of the rising cult following for the 116506, that could be a particular Daytona with a really loud presence. In distinction, the 126529LN flies nicely beneath the radar, and, regardless of being among the many hardest-to-get watches within the Rolex catalog at this second, I don’t suppose it might garner any extra informal consideration than that of a metal black dial Daytona.
That stated, in case you cross paths with a Daytona nerd, although, you could be late to your subsequent assembly.
Stacey out.
A Pedantic Interlude
I’ve been listening to the chatter surrounding this watch because it landed in France a month in the past, and one factor that has been bugging me is the social media discuss relating to the sub-registers. Everyone seems to be saying that each the typography and markers are harking back to the exotic-dial Daytonas of yesteryear.
And I’m right here to say that simply ain’t true. Sure, the squared-off markers are an apparent reference, nevertheless it principally begins and ends there. The numerals themselves are principally a part of the identical numeral bundle Rolex makes use of on any of its fashionable watches and doesn’t seem to have any tie-in with the Newman styling. Now that I’ve gotten that off my chest we are able to transfer on.
The place This Stands Within the Fashionable Rolex Catalog
Identical to the previous days, when a non-Newman and Newman would coexist within the Rolex stock, so too does this new watch (non-limited by the way in which) share the catalog with different, more-modern-leaning configurations.
Reference Factors: The (Non-Newman) Daytona
Exploring the full-breadth (besides PND dials) of the Daytona line from the Sixties to at this time.
So what’s the closest sibling to this watch within the Daytona lineup? Nicely, it seems to be the black dial, kind-of-reverse-panda Daytona on an Oystefelx bracelet with a black ceramic bezel. What’s lacking on that mannequin is the steel bracelet, open caseback, the purple accent on the bezel, the exotic-style sq. markers, and the stark white sub-registers (these are silver).
I believe all of us agreed when that watch was launched that it was so near the end line, however was simply lacking the additional one thing. That one thing is absolutely realized on this new 2023 ref. 126529LN.
The Rolex Daytona ref. 126519LN with its silver subdials, normal sub-registers, closed caseback and bezel insert with out purple flourish.
Ideas On Collectibility
It’s completely bonkers to have two mammoth Daytona bulletins in a single calendar yr, not to mention mere months aside. That is the form of watch that goes years with none form of adjustment.
Whereas March’s assortment refresh was Web-breaking good, I believe the Le Mans is a a lot greater deal. For one factor, there shall be much less of those available on the market globally. You simply gained’t see it, and also you’ll have a hell of a time getting your palms on one.
The best way that it speaks to the previous also needs to affect its potential worth not simply to informal watch consumers, but additionally to collectors. I requested a few our personal specialists to weigh in on this watch’s influence. First up is our personal Tony Traina:
I wouldn’t essentially argue that any fashionable Rolex is ‘collectible,’ no matter that phrase means to you, pricey reader, however as a lot as any is perhaps, I suppose this could possibly be it. Particularly if Rolex solely finally ends up making it for a yr or so (it’s to have a good time the one hundredth anniversary of Le Mans in spite of everything). Like, when the primary one (sadly) reveals up on the secondary market, what’s going to be the ask, 100k? Does it even matter? Extra broadly, it’s maybe essentially the most overt historic reference we’ve seen from Rolex not too long ago, a model that we’re all the time informed: “doesn’t do heritage.” With this launch, paired with current public sale outcomes (courtesy of Rolex itself), it’s clear Rolex is as involved with its historical past as anybody. And for others (like me, and possibly even you) which might be additionally involved with its historical past, possibly that’s essentially the most vital information of all.
Subsequent up, Wealthy Fordon (who you may keep in mind was my co-star in Reference Factors):
The design and determination to launch the watch is completely Rolex. In hindsight, the writing was on the wall since 2016 with the swap to a ceramic bezel on the Daytona together with the slight bezel change made at Watches & Wonders this yr, each inching the mannequin’s aesthetics nearer to plastic bezel, manually-wound classic Daytonas. But, the Le Mans stunned everybody.
The watch itself doesn’t straight borrow all the pieces from a “Paul Newman” dial, simply as the latest 126500LN doesn’t borrow all the pieces from a 6263. It’s higher in dwell pics than the preliminary renders and watching provide over the subsequent yr or so shall be very attention-grabbing to me. I believe we’ll see only a few of those watches made and that’s most likely the precise transfer.
On the finish of the day, the roughly $50k price ticket gained’t be for everybody. With it, you’ve received to do not forget that this can be a white gold Daytona on a white gold bracelet. It will likely be a low-production mannequin and it’s tied to this Le Mans anniversary. In a phrase, it’s particular. In two phrases, it’s very particular, and really particular issues (particularly from Rolex) include large value tags. Additionally, the value of a Rolex on this context in the end doesn’t even matter.
One can solely guess what the going charge shall be once they start hitting the secondary market, however my guess can be: loads. However that pricing speaks to pleasure and shortage, which is an idea we all know nicely in relation to this mannequin.
Is that this the most popular Daytona to hit the market because the launch of the metal ceramic fashions in 2016? You inform me.
The Rolex Daytona Ref. 126529LN. 40mm in diamter, 100m of water resistance through screw-down crown and screw-down pushers. Black dial, reverse-panda design with white registers. Cerachrom bezel with purple ingredient. White gold case and bracelet, and bracelet with Rolex Simple-Hyperlink adjustment system. Exhibition caseback that includes COSC-certified Superlative Chronometer caliber 4131 with 72 hours of energy reserve. Worth: $51,400.
