The now defunct Rolex Cellini assortment wasn’t precisely the center of the horological celebration the final couple of years. Sitting behind the Oyster-cased sport stars within the catalogue the Cellini was extra of a dressy afterthought than a well-designed collector’s dream. That little bit of variety to cater to the person lusting for a black-tie-event Rolex piece…
However that wasn’t at all times the case. The Cellini assortment was launched in 1968 at a time when the benefit of a one-watch-for-all-purposes clashed with the truth of the financial increase. Having greater than a one-watch-collection was a advertising stunt developed throughout these years and the area of interest the Cellini was developed for.
“Gold’s Best Hour – The Benvenuto Cellini Assortment By Rolex” – A testomony to bringing the classicist design language into the horological world. Advertorial Courtesy of HIFI Archiv.
And it was throughout these early years that Rolex nonetheless took the inheritor to the namesake Renaissance sculptor and goldsmith – Benvenuto Cellini – very very significantly. Lots of the fashions had been impressed by Greek/Roman structure, mythology and the classicist shapes. In different phrases: Unprecedented and unseen horological designs that distinguished the Rolex gown watch from the market the identical manner the Oyster did 40 years prior.
The early course of the gathering clearly got here on the heels of Gerald Gentas “King Midas” from 1962 (WBL information [here]) and in quite a lot of distinct types. One significantly recognizable is the “Octagon” – a set of items all sharing an octagonal bezel and that particular built-in bracelet feeling…
The Rolex Cellini “Octagon” ref. 4350 in white gold with navy blue dial. That is a particular gown watch! Picture Courtesy of Goldammer Archives.
1) The Design
Launched in 1976 the “Octagon” got here in quite a few variations however the framework stayed the identical: A 26.5mm x 36mm 3-body case with snap-on case-back at simply 6.3mm top and the defining eight-facet bezel with (within the basic execution) Roman numerals at 3-6-9-12.
The circumstances had been manufactured outdoors of Rolex with the famend La-Chaux de Fonds case maker ‘Favre & Perret’ (hammerhead hallmark #115) and got here in yellow gold (most prevalently, ~80-90%), white gold or bicolored white/yellow gold (the rarest materials mixture). And despite the fact that the President fashion bracelet – made by Rolex – seems to be built-in it’s hooked up to the case with basic spring bars. They’re powered by the manually wound cal. 1601 (hardly ever later with cal. 1602).
The case was made by Fare & Perret and the bracelet by Rolex. Although it’d appear to be an built-in bracelet it’s really hooked up by (quick) spring bars. Picture Goldammer Archives.
2) The References
Nevertheless, as already beautiful because the ‘vanilla Octagon’ is the great thing about these items stems from the quite a few variations you will discover on the market. You may already distinguish 13 references, all with their distinctive traits. Curiously, other than just a few much more unique items, all of them seem to have been produced in two essential batches in 1976 (4.32-4.37 Mio) and 1981 (6.90-6.94 Mio) and we’re talking in all probability of an general manufacturing within the only a few 1000’s.
– Flip you cellphone right here when studying on cell –
| Reference | Bezel | Bracelet | Prod. Vary |
| 4350 | Roman + Marker | Gold | 4.32 – 4.37 Mio; 6.90 – 6.94 Mio |
| 4351 | Roman + white enamel | Gold | 6.944 Mio |
| 4352 | Roman + purple enamel (?) | Gold | ??? |
| 4353 | Roman + blue enamel | Gold | 6.941 – 6.944 Mio |
| 4354* Onyx | Roman + black enamel | Gold (+ Diamonds) | 6.932 – 6.939 Mio |
| 4355 | Hobnail | Gold | W01, L70 collection |
| 4650 | Diamond, 1 row | Gold | 4.33 – 4.36 Mio; 6.92 Mio |
| 4651 | Diamond, 2 rows | Gold | 4.327 – 4.370 Mio; 6.941 Mio |
| 4652 | Diamond, 2 rows (54) | Gold + Diamond | 4.365 – 4.370 Mio; 4.900 – 4.981 Mio; 6.90 – 6.919 Mio |
| 4951 | Massive Diamonds (32) | Gold (+ Octopus) | 6.916 – 6.944 Mio; W02, N46 collection |
| 5151 | Bicolored, VI-XII | Bicolor | 9.41 Mio; 9.722 Mio |
| 4055 | Ruby or Diamond Edge | Gold | 4.332 Mio |
| 5083 | Sapphire | Gold | 6.943 Mio |
Desk 1. Overview of the 13 Rolex Cellini Octagon references. * doubtlessly out there in purple, blue & black.
Determine 1. Overview over the classic Rolex Cellini Octagon references from 1976 – Nineties. Photographs Courtesy of Christie’s, Antiquorum, Eppli, Ineichen, Goldammer, Windsor Finery, Archiwatch, Rago Arts, Menta Watches, & The Keystone.
The immense selection in references is just surpassed within the sheer quantity of various dial and gem mixtures… Most of those items include yellow-on-yellow gold dials however the cornucopia ranges over varied colours – purple, blue, black, white. On high you may add diamond accents, diamond pave and gemstone mixtures in addition to lapis lazuli, onyx and burlwood to the listing. Usually, most dials will not characteristic any hour markers on the dial however some executions can show 3-6-9 baton markers.
3) The Sultanate of Oman
Curiously, as uncommon as these items are, we have seen fairly just a few coming to market which were linked to the Sultanate of Oman. Of the about 60 Cellini Octagon examples I’ve recognized at the very least 6 of them had been immediately linked to the Royal home -four with the Khanjar dagger in sheath over crossed swords, and two with the extra crown over the Khanjar on the caseback ([this] & [this]; indicating the watch being a extra unique reward, evaluate [here]). The Sultan was an avid watch collector and giver and many of the items bearing the crest had been commissioned by Asprey in London.
Three Rolex Cellini Octagon examples bearing the Khanjar – the Royal Crest of the Sultanate of Oman – on the dial. Photographs Courtesy of Christie’s.
4) The Conclusion
What a shocking lineup! Rolex simply nailed these early Cellini creations and stayed extraordinarily true to the title and the imaginative and prescient of what the Cellini could be in an evolving market of high-end luxurious. We merely cannot evaluate the “Octagon” to what got here in the direction of the tip of the Cellini – when it seems that the gathering misplaced its focus, its objective, its raison d’etre. Trying a superb 50 years again there’s such a transparent message introduced ahead by the Cellini that merely received lacking alongside the way in which, or that was possibly watered down by too many alternative iterations…
1981 Rolex Cellini commercial – “Renaissance Artwork, Rolex Craftsmanship”. Courtesy of HIFI Archiv.
I actually do not need to deliver concerning the message “up to now all was once higher”, however what I need to clarify is that the title and assortment “Cellini” stand for one thing we could have forgotten at this time. It’s not the black sheep, the stepchild assortment we consider now. It was a lot extra. To me the Cellini fashions of the Seventies and 80s had been doubtlessly as forward-thinking as the unique Oyster.
Sure, you see accurately. A 1981 Rolex Cellini ref. 4951 with 32 sensible minimize diamonds and the elusive “Octopus” bracelet. Picture Courtesy of Bulang & Sons.
Proper now we’re simply beginning to re-appreciate the lavish jewelry-esque creations of the Swiss watchmaking workshops of the Seventies. Piaget traditionally spearheaded this motion, and the ‘Holy Trinity’ adopted. However this is likely to be the one and solely time we’re underestimating and forgetting the affect and creativity of Rolex.
Is not that nearly comical? The model that outlined the tool-watch style and made it their very own cannot be acknowledged for the rest. The halo irradiating from the Submariner, GMT, Explorer and Daytona would possibly merely be too vivid to look past. However that is the rationale the Cellini “Octagon” deserves the highlight, at the very least this one time…
